Lucille Ball wears dress and jewelry by Rodarte. Vintage pillow by Cartier.

October 9, 2018
Fashion

Art by: Britt Berger

BEST OF NEW YORK FASHION WEEK, SPRING 2019, BY FASHION IN AFTERLIFE

Another round of fashion weeks has come to an end, with designers offering up a wide variety of visions for Spring 2019. New York favorites Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez brought their Proenza Schouler show back from Paris to launch into a new period with a focus on clothes for “real” life, while Rodarte sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy also marked a triumphant return with a fantasy vision of their signature dark and moody glamour. LVMH Prize finalist Matthew Adams Dolan continued his exploration of American fashion tropes with vibrant fluorescents and oversize proportions and Marc Jacobs closed out the week with a procession of his own personal obsessions, revived with renewed vigor. But it was perhaps Raf Simons who summed up best the tumultuous, terrifying time America is going through at Calvin Klein with an ode to both Jaws and The Graduate, two touchstones from decades ago that ring just as true today with their menace and uncertainty. Britt Berger of Fashion in Afterlife has remixed looks from our five favorite collections of the week in these collages, uniting the past and the future the way the best fashion should.

Dorothy Dandridge wears all clothing by CALVIN KLEIN 205W39NYC.

Rue McClanahan wears all clothing by Matthew Adams Dolan. Sneakers by New Balance.

Kurt Cobian wears all clothing by Proenza Schouler.

Jayne Mansfield wears all clothing by Marc Jacobs.

Art by: Britt Berger

Róisín Pierce Transforms Sustainability Into Luxury

Winner of the inaugural Chanel Prix des Métiers d’Art last year, the rising Irish designer turns the history of “fallen women” into a forceful and provocative collection suffused with details and handicraft underpinned by a foundation of sustainability.

Women in Charge

Gabriela Hearst, Marina Moscone, and Marine Serre are three of the many women taking charge in fashion of late, offering distinctive visions while attempting to slow down the endless churn of the seasons.

Angel Chang Slows Fashion Down

After years of experience at major international brands, the New York-based designer returns with an eponymous sustainable line crafted by artisans in remote China using ancient techniques, reconnecting consumers with handcraft and tradition.

Prabal Gurung's New Book

The Nepalese designer celebrates a decade of championing diversity, inclusion, and a world made “stronger through color” with his vibrant clothing in his first monograph.

Faces by Gregory Harris and Katelyn Gray

Photographer Gregory Harris and our fashion editor Katelyn Gray offer a celebration of individuality and originality with the help of a cast of eleven rising models assembled by The Secret Gallery.

A Love Letter to New York Starring Binx Walton

The cover story of our Fall 2019 issue is a love letter to New York City from photographer Dan Martensen and stylist Clare Richardson starring Binx Walton.

South African Thebe Magugu Is the Winner of the 2019 LVMH Prize

As one of the first-ever LVMH Prize finalists from Africa, the Johannesburg-based designer seeks to share a new side of his homeland through vibrant collections based around university curricula and a zine focused on his city’s new wave of cultural talent.

The 2019 LVMH Prize: Bethany Williams Puts Her Principles Into Every Design

By using upcycled materials and partnering with charitable organizations for every gender-neutral collection, the London-based designer serves as a role model for socially conscious creation, imbuing her streetwear with strong guiding principles and ethics.

The 2019 LVMH Prize: Hed Mayner Designs His Own Body Language

Oversized silhouettes in neutral colors and natural fabrics form the starting point for each collection from the Tel Aviv-based designer, whose pure æsthetic is driven by the dialogue between clothes and the body they embrace.

The 2019 LVMH Prize: Bode Turns the Past Into the Future

A lifelong collector drawn to the emotional qualities of material objects, the winner of this year’s CFDA Award for Emerging Designer looks to an overflowing archive of vintage fabrics and her personal relationships with friends and family for inspiration.

The 2019 LVMH Prize: Kenneth Ize Wants to Slow It Down

Born and raised in Vienna, the Nigerian designer returned to his parents’ hometown of Lagos to launch his namesake label, focusing on creating covetable handmade fabrics meant to connect wearers more intimately to their own clothes and the people who made them.

The 2019 LVMH Prize: Phipps Offers Lessons on Sustainability

Science and sustainability are the two driving forces behind the two-year-old menswear brand that combines environmentally responsible fabrics and “educational clothing” with a slow-and-steady approach to growth.

The 2019 LVMH Prize: Stefan Cooke Makes Old Ideas New

Just two years after graduating with MAs from Central Saint Martins, the London-based duo have established themselves with intricately crafted designs that pull inspiration from the crowded and diverse history of fashion.

The 2019 LVMH Prize: Anrealage's Kunihiko Morinaga Sees the Future

A fascination with the liminal space between the real and the unreal is a hallmark of the Japanese designer’s work, manifesting as a fabric that changes color when exposed to ultraviolet light and garments designed from detail shots blown up by three hundred percent.

Peter Ash Lee's New Magazine 'Burdock' Celebrates Asian-American Talent

Named after a root vegetable common to Asian cuisine, photographer Peter Ash Lee’s new magazine and digital platform celebrates Asian-American culture in an attempt to welcome a more diverse group both in front of and behind the camera.

Spring Cleaning

Bright colors, long lines, and unconventional textures are the hallmarks of Jen Carey and Alexandra Carl’s fashion feature from our Spring 2019 issue starring Lithuanian Giedrė Dukauskaitė.

Tonne Goodman Shares Her 'Point of View'

In her new book, the celebrated former Vogue fashion director shares images from her childhood, her modeling career, and her family life, along with the countless editorials, advertisements, and covers to which she has lent her crisp eye over the years.

Before the Bloom

Emma Summerton and Théophile Hermand find tranquility with Sneha Kaul in London’s Hampstead Heath as the season begins to turn in this fashion feature from our Spring 2019 issue.