BEST OF MILAN F/W 2013


The big news for Fall 2013—if the recent Milan shows are anything to go by—is fur, and lots of it, as is made clear by The Last Magazine fashion director Alastair McKimm’s top ten looks. There was little surprise that it popped up at Fendi, a house long known for its luxurious pelts, where Karl Lagerfeld jazzed up plush outerwear with eye-poppingly bright multicolored racing stripes. Miuccia Prada worked fur coats and cuffs into her sexy collection, which looked slinky and sultry with dress fronts that bowed open and straps that hung off shoulders. Over at Marni, Consuelo Castiglioni worked with a surprisingly austere æsthetic, with monochromatic dresses and boxy coats that recalled her earlier experiments with proportion. Max Mara’s design team went all-in on outerwear, piling layers of comfortable-looking chunky camel coats and jackets together for a look that was natty yet elegant. Donatella Versace brought a punk influence to her show, with grunge-y check prints, spiked collars, and lots of leather that added a tough edge to the label’s traditional glamour. Plaid went in a completely different direction at Dolce & Gabbana, where Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana wove baroque, religious ornamentation together with clean, upper-class skirt suits and lots of lace for a collection which, as always, celebrated the breadth of Italy’s cultural and social history. Jil Sander, on the other hand, looked decisively forward, offering starkly modernist and minimalist outfits with inventive shapes and longer proportions. There was a pleasing pared-down feel to Umit Benan’s designs at Trussardi—his last for the house—as well, playing off a menswear look that has become a signature of sorts for him. Frida Giannini brought high drama at Gucci, with shimmery gowns and shapely coats that had an almost subversively sexy appeal. Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s pieces for his No. 21 line were mixed and matched with exuberant flair, as varied prints, textures, and silhouettes came together in a style that felt just right.

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