INEZ VAN LAMSWEERDE & VINOODH MATADIN

It is perhaps the ultimate testament to a photographer’s vision when the images they produce become as famous as their subjects, à la Bert Stern’s infamous photographs of Marilyn Monroe. To that end, it’s hard to think of either Björk or Antony Hegarty without instantly recalling one of Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin’s stark, emotive black-and-white portraits. And it’s even harder to believe that it’s been twenty-five years since the Dutch duo first began producing their iconic photographs. From their first collaboration in 1986, the team have created a wealth of memorable editorials, campaigns, and celebrity portraits that have pushed fashion photography in myriad new directions. Their fashion stories, beginning with a technologically innovative shoot for (now sadly defunct) The Face in 1994, have gone on to help define the look of many contemporary magazines. Their advertisements, for brands as varied as Yves Saint Laurent, Balmain, and Louis Vuitton, have played off the duality between object and desire that is one of the pair’s idées fixes.

Just in time to celebrate their quarter-century mark, the Foam_Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam–in the pair’s former hometown before a 1995 relocation to New York–is presenting Pretty Much Everything–Photographs 1985-2010, a comprehensive survey featuring 275 of the duo’s striking, conceptual works. The show, designed by M/M Paris (Inez and Vinoodh’s longtime collaborators, most memorably for their 2001 collage-driven Balenciaga campaign), eschews the chronological set-up of most mid-career surveys, opting instead for an organization that revolves around personal and romantic felicities and coincidences, drawing connections between images that span the pair’s career. To accompany the exhibition, the pair will be releasing their first monograph next spring, a two-volume set containing a momentous 666 photographs. How’s that for a quarter-life crisis?

Pretty Much Everything–Photographs 1985-2010 is on view at the Foam_Fotografiemuseum Amsterdam from June 25 through September 15.

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