FREYA DALSJØ

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There is a utilitarian language behind Freya Dalsjø’s clothing. Which isn’t to say that her designs are devoid of beauty—in fact, it’s quite the opposite. Somehow, this Danish designer manages to merge femininity with functionality, as if the two were effortlessly compatible. In the fluidity of her spliced shirtdresses, for instance, one can sense Dalsjø’s desire to mediate the manufactured and get to the heart of something a little more real. “In fashion we often see people strive for perfection in female appearances, which tends to be quite unnatural,” she explains, “even when we portray a natural look.”

“I’m inspired by portraying a woman I know and am genuinely affected by,” Dalsjø says. “Her mood, reactions, and interactions all make me want to portray something that feels more real and communicates an idea that different women can relate to.” Irreverent towards tradition and at once in awe of it, Dalsjø’s designs are both timeless and yet unexpectedly so. It is precisely this sort of dichotomy on which the designer thrives.

For the Copenhagen mainstay, fashion is all about balance. Seeking to resolve in her collections, for instance, both statements and counterstatements, she frequently explores unusual color combinations, materials, or concepts. Most recently, Dalsjø brought this fusion to life through her collaboration with Danish sportswear label H20 for Spring 2017 in a union that introduced sporty lines to an otherwise tailored universe of high-end fabrications. By broadening the production possibilities in this way, Dalsjø explains that she was able to stretch the boundaries of what sportswear means today.

In fact, this rebellion is evident in all that Dalsjø turns her hand to. A product, perhaps, of her time spent at the prestigious Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Belgium, which counts the Antwerp Six designers like Dries Van Noten and Ann Demeulemeester amongst its alumni. “I was struggling, as the teachers wanted me to be less artistic and focus more on actual fashion and garments,” she explains of her decision to depart before graduating. Unsure if fashion was absolutely the path for her, the designer says this institution nonetheless provided the perfect education: “They push you to extremes you have never heard of. It was extremely tough, but you get to cross boundaries. You learn how to work, basically.”

Ultimately, Dalsjø says that she channelled her frustrations into the inception of her label as a way to test herself—to confirm that this really was the way forward. “It took me a long time to learn what clothing actually is, what a relevant wardrobe is, what people want to wear, what they buy, and why they buy,” she recalls, adding, “that it is a business.” With that concept in mind, it’s a classical wardrobe the designer is striving towards most—albeit one with a shock of electric yellow. Despite statement details like those explored for Spring 2017 though, Dalsjø’s focus on longevity over transience is written into her sculptural shapes and use of quality materials.

“We are constantly restricted by ever-changing codes in all aspects of our lives,” Dalsjø explains. “Constantly becoming aware of these codes and breaking free from them in a way that makes us grow, not just rebel, is the essence of creativity and freedom.” This act of rejecting norms is palpable in the very shapes and movement of her clothing, too. Bringing together a great many (sometimes opposing) references from culture, identity, and relationships, Dalsjø is used to keeping up with fashion’s relentless pace by now—having first shown her début collection for Fall 2012 on the Copenhagen Fashion Week schedule. But rather than bowing to the high-speed turnover, her designs seem to transcend it.

This timelessness is one of the most interesting things about Dalsjø’s designs: they appear radically unconventional but at the same time reassuringly familiar. Much of this innovation lies in her ability to challenge our notions of beauty. “I think the codes that restrict us most [relate to] the norms of the season or generation,” she says. “When we are too concerned or aware of beauty and style norms, everything tends to become boring and alike. When we push boundaries, though, new creation can arise.”

For more information, please visit FreyaDalsjo.com.