- By
- Jonathan Shia
- Art by
- Gustaf von Arbin
OAMC
Luke Meier is no stranger to high altitudes. A longtime skier and snowboarder, the Canadian designer behind OAMC says his youthful experiences helped shape his latest collection, but they were not without risk. “I’ve been in dangerous situations, but I was probably too young to have realized how sideways things could have gone if the weather had changed,” he recalls. “Avalanches are no joke.”
For Fall 2015, Meier says he was inspired by “spirituality and evolution in the alpine environment”—the Himalayas, to be precise—and “more specifically, how these two ideas can coexist so well there.” Down jackets are reworked as sleek overcoats, a smooth parka comes in a sharp safety red, and a subtle print evokes the soft spots of a snow leopard. “I used spiritual iconography in the form of crosses and flags and evolutionary ones, such as Darwin and the snow leopard,” he explains. “I have spent a lot of time in the mountains, and there is a strong feeling there. It’s very tranquil but can also be very violent and dangerous. When I think of Everest, I imagine extreme beauty and extreme savagery in one place; quintessential duality, really.”
Designed in Paris and developed in Milan, OAMC is now in its fourth season and marks a sharp turn for Meier, who previously worked for Supreme. Rather than taking on street culture, Meier’s new line offers an elevated approach to dressing, one that has a strong historical foundation but feels rigorously modern. “Respect for the past is essential because research is an integral part of design,” he says about using the old to make the new. “More than actual products or references, I focus on the mindset of different eras. I like to imagine certain time periods and try to think about the people living then. How did they solve problems? I then translate these ideas into products, but in a way that is relevant to today. I never want to make things that are vintage or are recreations.”
Looking ahead to Spring 2016, Meier says he turned to Africa for inspiration. “I went to Tanzania three years ago, and it was a trip that changed my life,” he explains. “Clichéd to say, but it’s true.” The Masai’s iconic checkered red-and-blue pattern makes an appearance, but the overall effect is more edgy sophistication than rugged safari. “In the collection, I explored the idea of protection because of the constant feeling of physical vulnerability you have when you’re there,” he adds. “Nature is remorseless, but at the same time it is very efficient.”
As for the future, Meier says he will continue to travel, seeking out new experiences for inspiration. “Travel is important because it shifts your perspective,” he says. “It gives you new appreciation for your place in the world.” And his next stop? “Ideally, the Amazon.”
For more information, please visit OAMC.com. OAMC is available at Barneys New York and Dover Street Market, New York.
- By
- Jonathan Shia
- Art by
- Gustaf von Arbin