BEST OF LONDON FASHION WEEK FALL 2014

From bobby soxers and mods to punks and YBA’s, London has always run on youth culture—and its fashion is no different. A constant stream of new talent keeps coming out of the British capital and, to judge from our fashion director Alastair McKimm’s top ten looks from the recent shows, Fall 2014 is no different.

Newcomer Simone Rocha, just a handful of years out of Central Saint Martins, offered a fresh, modern take on ornate Elizabethan shapes with a touch of contemporary lightness. Fellow alumni Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida moved past their strong foundation in denim with rich furs and luminous colors they said were inspired by the faded glory of New York’s Chelsea Hotel. Ashley Williams took her final turn in the Fashion East stable with an equestrian-themed collection of prints and patterns that will give her a good head start as she sets out independently next season. The Fall collections also demonstrated that London’s reputation for new talent is much more durable than just flash-in-the-pan one-season wonders. Christopher Kane sent out something for everyone, decorating his designs with pleats, ruffles, bows, and distorted flowers that resulted in a powerfully eclectic and convincing vision. Thomas Tait played with geometry, riffing on Constructivism and Bauhaus for a powerful look forward. Giles Deacon pared down his often-elaborate signature style for a clean coolness that felt collected and at ease but clearly carried the same thinking as his earlier designs. Peter Pilotto went with an optical frenzy, with clashing prints in vibrant, throbbing colors finding a sublime sort of harmony thanks to his practiced hand. JW Anderson’s smooth designs took on a sculptural quality, with strong silhouettes that rewarded careful attention to detail. Louise Trotter’s street-ready looks for Joseph had a pure simplicity and urban ease, befitting a longtime London brand celebrating its twenty-fifth anniversary with a rare fashion show. And the American Tom Ford, a fashion veteran now finding his way on his own, harkened back to the city’s Swinging Sixties, giving his youthful looks a decadent appeal that lent them just the right amount of grown-up conviction.

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Left: Giles Right: Thomas Tait

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