It was a season of contrasts at the Fall 2014 Milan shows, with bold graphic modernism clashing with vibrant animal prints and smooth, controlled shapes holding their ground opposite the wild decadence of fur. Our fashion director Alastair McKimm’s top ten collections cover an appropriate range, from the pure and progressive to the luxe and lavish, as can be seen in the slideshow above.

With fur popping up on a number of runways, it was no surprise to find Karl Lagerfeld going for broke at Fendi, where it showed up in rich patchworks, full coats, small tufts on sleek dresses, and even in a self portrait of sorts, a small fuzzy trinket in the likeness of the designer himself. Over at Gucci, Frida Giannini mined her beloved Sixties for a mod-inspired collection full of clean peacoats, kicky babydoll dresses, and over-the-top fur jackets. Roberto Cavalli worked his luxurious pelts into an equally vivid, if more remote decade, as stoles over flapper dresses and slim sportswear in graphic Art Deco designs or animal prints. Leopards were the beast of choice over at Sportmax, adding an exotic richness to the sharp designs. Peter Dundas offered a new approach to the prints he has been working with at Emilio Pucci, pulling from his own Scandinavian heritage for a collection that felt deeply personal while still maintaining the founder’s vision. Jeremy Scott made his début at Moschino in a powerful way, with designs that riffed on candy packaging and McDonald’s iconography. Consuelo Castiglioni put her signature, unique twist on furs for Marni, with wide cuts and bold stripes with an artistic bent. Alexis Martial worked a sense of futurism into his pieces for Iceberg, with innovative fabrics and progressive flourishes like shimmering plastic patches on his pristine sweatshirts. Miuccia Prada continued her exploration of Germany’s bygone cultural visionaries, with remarkable designs that combined a hard edge with soft emotion and were, she said, inspired by director Rainer Werner Fassbinder. And Bottega Veneta’s Tomas Maier found the sweet spot for the house’s tradition of understated elegance, with a pristine collection of dresses and long coats that combined rigorous craftsmanship with a simple purity.

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Left: Iceberg Right: Moschino