Top row, from left: Giles, Peter Pilotto, Mary Katrantzou, Thomas Tait, Burberry Prorsum
Bottom row, from left: JW Anderson, Erdem, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Simone Rocha, Christopher Kane

BEST OF LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING 2014

London Fashion Week has always been the one with a little extra youthful spirit, and that difference has never been as prominent as it was with the riotous floral prints and colors and unconventional designs that showed up for Spring 2014, as The Last Magazine’s fashion director Alastair McKimm’s top ten looks demonstrate. Giles Deacon went all in, splashing gorgeous Glen Luchford photographs of Nineties supermodels across his flowing gowns and skirts. Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi fused geometric shapes and blossoms on their sharply-cut looks for a progressive vision at Preen. Christopher Kane took a scientific approach to botany as well, offering compelling pieces that played off petal cutouts and schematics that looked straight out of a textbook. Mary Katrantzou is no stranger to the emphatic print, and her stunning collection was packed with blown-up shoe close-ups and florals that turned the models’ bodies into evocative canvases. Her fellow printsmaster Erdem Moralıoğlu went in a starkly different direction, taking inspiration from English public schools for a sharp show in black and white that toyed with androgyny. JW Anderson played with transparency, with sheer looks and bared flesh that found that difficult middle road between sexy and smart. There was plenty of skin on display at Burberry Prorsum also, where Christopher Bailey worked pastel lace into a myriad of proper looks with a very British sense of playfulness. Lace—this time in neon hues—made a vibrant appearance at Peter Pilotto too, where it was embroidered onto vibrant dresses and separates that are guaranteed to garner attention. Thomas Tait‘s fluorescent hues were given a grown-up twist, with feminine appeal and the sporty influence he has mined so successfully in the past. Bright up-and-comer Simone Rocha marked a step into maturity as well, trading her girly frocks for strong shapes that bristled with confidence, continuing the English capital’s long tradition of helping new talent fulfill its brilliant potential.

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Left: Mary Katrantzou Right: Thomas Tait

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