Season after season, London has always proved itself a city apart, one that doesn’t conform to trends or expectations when it comes to bringing together a diverse vision of the bold and the new, especially in our fashion director Alastair McKimm’s top ten collections. Fresh off their LVMH Prize earlier this year, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida took their gorgeously deconstructed vision to another level, with frayed ruffles, threadbare seams, and unconventional and exotic fabrics. Simone Rocha added a threatening edge to her otherwise-romantic dresses, binding and wrapping her pieces in bondage-inspired straps. The print master Mary Katranztou brought new weight and texture to her designs, working in sequins and metallic threads for her crazy-quilt floral medleys.

Thomas Tait went for a pared-down approach, with embroidered cutout spots across clean leather pieces and floaty shifts. Christopher Kane’s collection had a winning naïveté, in the highlighter-bright palette, the swinging fringes, and the eclectic graphic prints. Graffiti-esque squiggles, oversized shoulders, and cascading ruffles were among the inspired ideas that came together in JW Anderson’s wide-ranging designs. Ashley Williams demonstrated a similarly all-embracing appetite, bringing together fishnets, graphic prints, and tattered lace with a grunge edge.

Lace was the standout takeaway at Burberry Prorsum, where blouses, dresses, and gowns combined romanticism and provocation to charming effect. Margaret Howell’s pristine outing offered clean black and white with a pop of red in sharp sportswear. The fresh Versus Versace collection, courtesy of Anthony Vaccarello, presented desirable sportswear in smooth leathers, hard-edged florals, and a brash, young attitude that shows the British capital at its best.

Take a look at Alastair’s favorite collections from New York here.

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Left: Ashley Williams
Right: Margaret Howell
Alastair McKimm