Spring 2014 was a sporty season in Milan, accentuated by long silhouettes that hit well below the knee and sharpened by a stark, graphic palette, as seen in The Last Magazine fashion director Alastair McKimm’s top ten looks. The arch-minimalist Jil Sander offered her customary clean cuts and sculpted shapes, with effortless coats and trousers that ended mid-calf. Consuelo Castiglione added an athletic edge to her ingenious Marni collection, finishing off her vibrant floral prints and lightweight dresses with visors and platform thongs. Alexis Martial made a kicky début at Iceberg, marshaling high-tech fabrics and manga-inspired prints for his slick sweatshirts and unencumbered sportswear. Alessandra Facchinetti presented an equally engaging first outing for Tod’s, with gorgeous red hues that put a little extra spice in the smooth, winning sportswear. There was a similar ease at Tomas Maier’s Bottega Veneta, with intricate long dresses that were gathered, pleated, and folded into studies of shape and space. Max Mara sent out a pared-down collection, with elegant, pale, monochromatic looks that set off a series of dresses in vibrant jewel tones. The younger line Sportmax added energy with zippy polka dots that popped across flowing day dresses. Frida Giannini got in on the athletic act at Gucci with mesh tops and shimmering track pants, putting an energetic spin on the house’s trademark sexiness. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana offered their inimitably Sicilian take on the season’s penchant for prints, reaching far back to the island’s classical ruins and native almond trees for their glamorous show. Miuccia Prada, as ever, went her own way, pulling rich ideas from mural art in a dynamic outing that hinted at feminism and offered a politics that was more personal than polemical.

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Left: Jil Sander Right: Iceberg