The biggest news out of New York from the Spring 2014 shows was a certain pared-down calmness, with smooth lines and loose silhouettes that exuded a quiet sort of confidence, according to The Last Magazine fashion director Alastair McKimm’s top ten looks. Over at Proenza Schouler, Jack McCullough and Lázaro Hernández offered long lines with a sharp graphic bent that was collected without being boring. Phillip Lim dug deep with a gorgeous collection inspired by the curving swirls and iridescent shimmers of geodes. Narciso Rodriguez worked with a striking new shorter proportion, sending out dresses and skirts that hit mid-thigh, for a look that was sensual—but with some thought behind it. There was a surprising wealth of overcoats this season, but few were as striking as the opening one Danielle Sherman showed in her début collection at Edun, with a strong graphic print that harkened back to her visits to the brand’s African factories earlier this year. Sherman’s former boss Alexander Wang revisited the Nineties, serving up oversized logos and a fresh athletic feel that mined sportswear shapes with a feminine twist. The Nineties were also front-of-mind for design duo Nicole and Michael Colovos, who returned Helmut Lang to the brand’s heyday decade with boxy cuts and a lightly androgynous æsthetic. Calvin Klein, another Nineties stalwart, saw Francisco Costa marking his tenth year at the house, with a collection that had all the brand’s trademark minimalism, but with a new emphasis on deconstruction, with split seams and frayed hems that turned away from the ideal of perfection being chased elsewhere. That same looseness also showed up at Altuzarra, where the style was an artful disarray of loose ends, with fringe, tassels, and open buttons fluttering with cool nonchalance. Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen worked with a similarly comfortable eclecticism at The Row, pulling from a global panoply of looks that fizzed with individuality yet still felt of a whole. Victoria Beckham, perhaps better known for the tight dresses she favors, went in a startling new direction, building a sturdy architecture for her woman, offering shapes and forms that were strong and sexy all at once.

1 /5
Alexander Wang Edun