There was a strong strand of elegance in the air in Paris during the recent Fall 2014 men’s shows, with a panoply of innovative takes on classic suiting and long overcoats with a clean, grown-up air. The Last Magazine fashion director Alastair McKimm’s top ten looks demonstrate the range of the city’s talents, from classic pinstripes to vibrant shine and shimmer. Those mature stripes came courtesy of Kris Van Assche at Dior Homme, who tossed off the modernist sportswear he is best known for and went back to the house’s roots, pulling from Christian Dior’s own favored midcentury styles. Riccardo Tisci offered his thought-provoking take on the geometric lines of a game of basketball, which helped reshape his notion of suiting with loose tailoring and lengthened jackets. Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri brought couture notions of cut and detail to their luxuriantly rich coats at Valentino. Lanvin designers Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver took hold of a powerful eclecticism, with rich tones contrasting with shocking neons and strong graphics. Yohji Yamamoto went for a similarly evocative hodgepodge, mixing together florals, skulls, and Fair Isle in a show that marked a departure from his usual slick designs. Raf Simons teamed up with Sterling Ruby for a one-off collaboration that produced one of the most talked-about shows of the season, with a provocative collage effect that set a new standard for art-fashion partnerships. Rick Owens worked with new shapes, his usual flowing, draped pieces replaced with emphatically oversized designs that had a certain sturdiness to them. Rei Kawakubo took a pair of scissors to her looks at Comme des Garçons, adding rebellious cutouts to her otherwise toned-down suits and coats. Hedi Slimane continued his redefinition of the house of Saint Laurent, putting a bit of rock-star sheen into his lightly Fifties-inspired collection. And over at Louis Vuitton, Kim Jones demonstrated the ever-searching spirit required of the most creative designers today, turning a trip to Chile’s Atacama Desert into compelling proof of the endless possibilities for inspiration contained within a constantly shrinking world.

For more looks, see our best picks from Milan Fashion Week and London Fashion Week.

Dior Homme photography by Patrice Stable. Lanvin photography by Marcio Madeira. Louis Vuitton photography by Ludwig Bonnet. Rick Owens photography by Valerio Mezzanotti. Yohji Yamamoto photography by Monica Feudi.

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Left: Comme des Garcons Right: Rick Owens